This All Female Designer Pop-up Shop Has Your Christmas Presents Sorted

Oxford street, cold sweat tube journeys and buyer’s remorse. Christmas shopping has to rank as the worst aspect of the holiday season alongside sprouts and distant relatives.

That’s why we, at Babyface (a creative agency and all female community FYI) are putting on a festive pop-up shop to end all festive pop-up shops (no mean feat). For one weekend only, the Babyface Christmas pop-up shop will be running out of our East London studio. We’ll be playing host to some of London and New York’s most exciting emerging womenswear designers, and you’re cordially invited to shop them all.

We’re extremely proud to be stocking NYC’s favourite bling brand, Tuza jewellery - they of the cult vagina pendant necklace. Suz Atala, Tuza’s creative director, will be have on offer pieces from a mixture of her collections. So, expect vajazzle necklaces (Adwoa Aboah is never without hers) bootleg Bart Simpson earrings, colourful enamelled hoops, burning heart rings, curb chain bracelets and most critically the brand’s staple gold hoops (no one does them better). This is made all the more exciting because of Tuza’s limited UK stockists, so Tuza die-hards, come early.

In the mix, we’ll also have a limited Truss NYC bags - the uniquely woven, colourful totes that downtown New York girls are currently coveting. Closer to home, we have everyone’s favourite latex brand, Hanger Inc. Maybe not nan-friendly, but Claire Davies (Hanger’s founder) is going a long way to proving the fabrication wearability and serious fashion credentials. Inspired by Japanese biker gangs, you’ll be able to snap up her latex belted jackets, latex kick flares and minimalist cotton pieces, such as wide leg trousers and mini skirts- all skewered by the brands’ colours of red, white and black. Clio Peppiatt, who’s consistently a London Fashion Week must-see will be selling her ultra-feminine designs, and cheeky slogan t-shirts. If you’re after something really special then might we also point you in the direction of London’s hottest lingerie designer, MARIEYAT. Think deconstructed cotton briefs and negative space crop tops in soft fabrics and subtle tones of grey and cream that whisper 'comfy'.

Conveniently enough, we also share a studio with Illustrated People- they’ll be selling their luxe-sportswear pieces: TLC inspired satin combat trousers and meme-able slogan sweatshirts, and, finally emerging brand Errortique will have a small collection of their beautiful handmade corsetry style tops and matching bags up for grabs to boot.

For & Against Dressing Up On Christmas Day

There are a few times in the year when it’s completely acceptable to be outrageously overdressed; your birthday, New Year’s Eve and Christmas Day.

Christmas Day is pretty much the only time of year when you can wear red head to toe, try out those experimental earrings you’re not sure about, or match a sequin skirt with a gold jumper without anyone batting an eyelid.

If we’re going to be overindulgent with our food, decorations, drinks and gifts… why not our clothes? If the turkey (or chicken in my case) takes say 2 to 3 hours to cook, why can’t I take half that time to get ready? If you can’t dress up on Christmas Day, when can you?

For me, Christmas is a celebration – a time to come together with family and celebrate one of the most important moments in the Christian calendar, so I like my outfit to reflect that. The beauty of a Christmas Day outfit is that, for most of us, only family will see it so it can be a little off the wall, and you don’t have to worry about painful heels or not-yet-worn-in boots.

Teaming a red dress with thick tights and your favourite slippers is totally acceptable, trying out a hairstyle that you know full well the wind and rain outside would ruin is fine because you won’t be going out there, and it’s time to get out those earrings that you always almost lose because one keeps falling off – because you will always be able to find it in the house again.

It sounds so cliché, but I feel good when I dress up. I sit up, I smile more, I feel more confident, I engage more. A glitter bath has been the staple of my Christmas morning for a few years now (thanks LUSH) and wearing something I feel special in (and something with the ever-essential loose waistband) is just an extension of that marvellously bougie, over the top festive spirit.

Rekindling My Love For High Heels

Ever since temp worker Nicola Thorp, a receptionist at PriceWaterhouseCoopers, was sent home from work for not wearing heels I’ve had a tumultuous relationship with the shoe myself. Even though Thorp has gone on to bag a part in Coronation Street and successfully draw attention to the sexism that’s rife in the City, the concept of heels has left a bad taste in my mouth. Coupled with the fact that over the last few years fashion has shifted dramatically towards athletism and comfort, this style of footwear has been easy to ignore.

However, slowly but surely ludicrously impractical footwear has found its way back. The ugly shoe trend that rose the ranks to haute couture standing, courtesy of Céline, Prada and Chanel, is having its watershed moment. Birkenstocks and Crocs are no more uncomfortable than kitten heels; just nobody talks about it. The excessive expenditure of sneakers for purely fashion’s sake is no less vain than investing in a wedge. Quelle surp, like all trends, when the pendulum of fashion swings away it will almost certainly swing back at some point. And, that point is this winter.

This season, footwear isn’t an afterthought. The trends that came out of the autumn/winter 17 shows started foot first. Saint Laurent’s epic eighties disco boots, Off-White's tulle-wrapped pumps and Gucci’s raised cowboy boots were a visual validation of the heel’s return.

More idiosyncratic than before, the humble heel now comes tilted, bent or in a geometric shape. Designers have let their creativity loose and reconfigured them into surreal and distinctive new shapes. Soft spandex sock shoes with knife-point heels were debuted at Vetements and Yeezy. Thick rubber soles held chunky boots aloft at Louis Vuitton and Coach. Go-go boots with tiny princess heels were the order of the day at Miu Miu, Chanel and Gucci. Translucent crystals and perspex cages elevated Dries Van Noten and Marni’s pumps. With enough pomp to rival Marie Antoinette’s dressing room, Mary Katrantzou and Céline showcased the little-known ‘fluevog’ heel for winter. Initially, its sumptuous curved silhouette looks preposterous, but the reality is it’s sturdy and every inch a scene-stealer.

But really, the heels comeback moment came at the hands of Cardi B who shot to number one while spitting about her love of Louboutins. ‘It’s a status symbol that the masses can relate to’, the rapper’s stylist Kollin Carter explained in an interview with Billboard. But, it’s more than just a status symbol. Type the word shoe into your phone, what comes up? A red stiletto. If this isn’t a vertiginous sign that it's a design classic, I’m not sure what will convince you.

I understand the argument for abandoning this style of footwear. They aren’t practical. They cause blisters. They are designed by and to please men. But, I feel elegant and put-together in them. At just 5ft 2inches my stature isn’t what anyone would deem mighty. But, with a pair of heels on my feet I suddenly enter the world at eye-level. The groceries I can never normally reach are within grasp. My stature changes. Renee Engeln, a professor of psychology at Northwestern University told the New York Times that they are designed ‘to lengthen your legs and change the way your shape looks from behind. That’s not accidental.’ Echoing this, Valerie Steele, the director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, explained, ‘High heels are the number-one sartorial symbol of erotic femininity, and that’s not changing anytime soon’. They are the final flourish that adds interest and excitement to even the dullest of ensembles.

Attire is commonly mistaken for self-expression, which means it's something that can then be wielded as a chalice of judgement. Wearing flats or the ‘ugly’ shoe trend makes me no less a feminist, in fact, it’s got nothing to do with it. My principals are not related to my footwear. Those that perceive my feminist credentials to be weakened by the decision to wear heels need to have a stern look at the reason they are appraising women in the first place. My love for heels is back, and I won't let anyone judge me for it.

The top five things to do at the new Toronto Fashion Week

It's been just over a year since Toronto Fashion Week's former owner IMG Canada pulled the plug on the semi-annual style extravaganza. The newly revived TFW will be held in Yorkville from September 5 to September 7, and helmed by owner and real estate magnate Peter Freed—with the help of industry vets like ASC Public Relations head Suzanne Cohon and IMG fashion director Carolyn Quinn. It's shaping up to be a glitzy affair with some serious star power, including designer Jean Paul Gaultier and filmmaker Francesco Carrozzini. Here are some of the coolest things sartorial-minded Torontonians can get up to next week.

Go to the shows

This fall, attendees can expect a smaller, pared-down selection of Canadian design talent. Instead of a full week of back-to-back presentations, each of the fest's three days will feature no more than a trio of runway shows—all from reasonably established labels like SGT-favourite Lucian Matis, preppy-chic queen Pink Tartan and athleisure experts Unttld. All this means that the couture on hand is likely to be less wildly experimental and way more wearable. Tickets to individual shows start at $113 each and can be purchased here.

See a fashion flick

Photographer and director Francesco Carrozzini, son of longtime Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani (and fiancé to Anna Wintour's daughter Bee Shaffer), is screening a film he directed about his late mother. Franca: Chaos and Creation reportedly took six years to complete and tells the story of the iconic editor's pioneering work, defiant attitude and relatively mysterious personal life. After the screening, viewers will participate in a Q&A with Carrozzini himself, hosted by Vogue arts editor Mark Guiducci.

Listen to talks moderated by Derek Blasberg

The writer, editor and TV host, who is BFFs with basically every supermodel and A-list actress (his Instagram is a daily peek into the lives of the rich and beautiful), is moderating a series of talks next week, including a conversation with legendary French couture designer Jean Paul Gaultier. Blasberg will also interview Toronto-born photographer and filmmaker Petra Collins and Oscar-nominated costume designer Arianne Phillips. Tickets to the talks start at $198 and can be purchased here.

Go to a party where Russell Peters is the DJ

The Canadian comedian known for his riffs on Indian culture will be moonlighting as a guest DJ for Toronto Fashion Week's closing party on Thursday evening. Partiers will get the chance to judge his taste in music, and hopefully hear a few jokes. General admission tickets are $113 a pop and can be bought here.

See a Salvador Dalí fashion exhibit

Starting September 7 and running until the end of the month, Yorkville Village will play host to a huge art exhibit dedicated to exploring the Spanish surrealist's relationship with, and influence on, the fashion world. The 30 pieces on display will include Dalí's fashion-focused paintings and sculptures (like “Woman Aflame” and “Dalinian Dancer“), as well as six modern designer dresses inspired by some of his iconic works.

Fashion for keeps

Sustainable fashion has arrived. 'Eco- friendly', 'organic' or 'green' are no more mere hip tags. Fashion houses are actually getting into the serious mode. Mango's new, organic cotton collection called 'Mango Committed' is in stores this season; Zara's 'Join Life Collection' features recycled material 'Refibra'; H&M's 'Conscious Collection', 'Reformation' collections turn around the fashion garments in re-purposed material; Dutch fashion house Viktor & Rolf's 2017 Spring Collection features deconstructed, damaged vintage outfits transformed into couture gowns. Need we say the concept is on fire?

Designers across the world have jumped on to the bandwagon to introduce more eco-friendly, organic and recycled materials. Remember, the kind of ovation sustainable fashion designer Peggy Sue Deaven-Smiltnieks got for her Collection at Toronto Women's Fashion Week this year? It brought down the house with her farm-to-high fashion designs.

Closer home, designers are addressing the issue and bringing about a more socially responsible ethos within the industry.

For designer Payal Khandwala, "buy less, but buy better" is the key to sustainable fashion. "In my opinion, the planet doesn't need any more clothes. Neither do you nor do I."

But fashion changes fast. How do we do without new clothes… Payal sees the answer in timeless styles. "If we all made clothes that could focus on timeless style, perhaps we can shift the focus from fast fashion to slow fashion." She insists on designing clothes that are season-less. "They are meant to be worn for years. So, we make them slowly and with care. They are designed as separates so that you can wear them in multiple ways. They have their own language and come without the baggage of trends, so you don't feel compelled to buy something new every few weeks. We don't churn out multiple collections every year because it is considered a product that is meant to be cherished, not to be cast away after wearing once. We grow slowly and organically and don't employ people or looms because brocade is in trend or handwoven textiles are fashionable." Businesswise, Payal ensures responsible sourcing of yarn and dyeing facilities at her weaving clusters in Varanasi, West Bengal and Bhagalpur.

Among the high-end designers, promoting sustainable fashion is Anita Dongre with her brand named Grassroot. For her, sustainable fashion means conducting the business of fashion the way it was always meant to be — looking towards the future, practicing and building processes that are sustainable, respectful of the people involved and environmentally conscious. "Grassroot is the embodiment of my core passion—to design clothes that hold a purpose. Every piece in this collection celebrates the crafts of India in contemporary wear. It also provides artisans a sustainable means of income in their villages, thus driving economy back through textile crafts."

With her, the idea was to give back to industries that have been behind-the-scenes of mainstream fashion. "It keeps the focus on reviving and empowering indigenous weavers and craftsmen by giving them employment for the production of modern-day garments," says Dongre.

Simple and easy to wear is the mantra for Anita Lal from Good Earth. For the brand, luxury is about "surrounding oneself with beautifully designed, artisanal products that sustain traditions, livelihood and the planet." Its Sustain apparel range was launched 10 years ago. "At the time, it was our conscious decision to bring khadi and handlooms into the mainstream of luxury clothing by making well-finished and easy-to-wear silhouettes."

Also toeing the sustainable line is designer Shweta Sharma through her label Ombré Lane. For her, it is important that what is sustainable is also stylish. "We cater to the clothing needs of the modern working women. We also believe in creating a direct impact in the lives of our fellow women with the help of our customers, and in creating pieces with long-lasting quality and durability over fast fashion."

Well, going sustainable is cool. Let no rules guide you. Do it your way. A tee that could last 10 years versus a couple months is the choice for you to make, for, in the end, it is for a better earth. And that could be your bit for the cause.

Fashion designer with Down syndrome heading to Hollywood gift lounge

Following a difficult health battle this winter, a young Nova Scotia fashion designer with Down syndrome can look forward to the rest of her year knowing it'll be sweetened with the kind of exposure any artist might dream of.

Marie Webb's Halifax studio is draped with her eye-popping, colourful dresses, scarves and shawls. They're a sample of what Hollywood will see this September, when Webb will be a part of a pre-Emmy Awards gifting lounge in Los Angeles.

Webb, 27, will appear at the lounge in advance of the award show, wearing her trademark vibrant fashions, offering up pocket squares she's created to the nominated actors and actresses.

"Backstreet Boys!" Webb exclaimed when asked whom she'd love to rub shoulders with. "They're really nice boys."

A 'colourful' personality

At her sunny north-end Halifax space at Wonder'neath Open Studio, where Webb is one of eight artists in residence, she plans, draws, colours and felts templates for her Lemonade Stand Designs brand. Her fashion designs are sold on online sites like Etsy and Shopify.

Webb's mother, Renee Forrestall, a well-known painter and art instructor, sits across from her. She scans designs and prepares them in Photoshop. She then sends them to a manufacturer in Montreal where the templates are applied to silks and satins.

"Marie is very optimistic and very positive and always look at the positive side. It's just the way she is. I think that comes out in her work that's colourful, joyful, playful," Forrestall said.

"And cuteful," Marie chimed in. "[The designs are] in my mind. Angels are in my dreams."

'Blissfully unaware' of illness

A marketing company organizing a pre-Emmy gift suite noticed Webb's work online and invited her to bring her designs to a suite where companies give away their products to celebrities and the press.

It won't be Webb's first celebrity-studded event. She went to the Toronto International Film Festival last year. But other invitations to the Golden Globes and Cannes Film Festival were sidelined by the diagnosis of a serious illness. Forrestall disclosed the details of the illness, but CBC News has agreed to keep them private.

Webb was hospitalized for a month this winter.

"We'd been cruising along fairly happily, blissfully unaware that Marie was actually quite ill. It did hit us like a tonne a bricks and we weren't sure, when we were in there, whether we were coming out," Forrestall said.

During her stay, Webb maintained that determination and smile, designing dresses from her hospital bed.

"She was drawing things and I was putting them up on the walls and all the nurses were coming in," said Forrestall. "She made it a party room."

Her diagnosis is something the family is still grappling with, administering medication daily. The gift suite invitation came after Webb's return home. Knowing she was stable, the family knew the trip was possible.

"I'm feeling pretty good now," said Webb. "I'm feeling pretty happy and thankful."

From pastime to career

The road to the City of Angels has had its unexpected twists and turns, said Forrestall. What began as a way to allow Webb to channel her creative side now takes up most hours of the day.

Forrestall, who never thought she'd be working in textiles, knows there's great value in what they do.

"This is so Marie has a real sense of the power of her work. The impact," she said. "Where your work can go when you design something on paper, this can become a real thing and flourish and thrive."

Abused dog and her headbands become face of dog fighting

Abigail has a new a home and a sibling-like canine to lean on.

The pit bull mix who wears a bonnet to cover her missing right ear has been adopted by a family in Fort Myers.

Last year, Abigail was found severely abused, and Southwest Floridians have nursed her back to health.

"We are over the moon excited to have her," said Megan Contreras, who adopted Abigail. "She is such a sweet, sweet girl. It's amazing to see her so loving and trusting after the situation she was in."

Contreras, a former WINK news television reporter now with the Lee County Visitor & Convention Bureau, and her husband, Jason, who works for a local law enforcement agency, were chosen out of 100 applicants to adopt Abigail.

They learned last weekend at a surprise event arranged by Love is Fur Ever, a rescue and foster program in Lehigh Acres. That's where Abigail lived for more than seven months.

The owner, Victoria Frazier, in 2016 had found her picture on a Facebook page run by volunteers who try to save dogs brought to a Miami shelter. She had been picked up  bloodied — on a Miami street.

Frazier nurtured her back to health with Estero veterinarian, Dr. Thomas Jackson. That's when she was given the name Abigail.

She likely had been used as a bait dog, abandoned and left to die on the street because of her injuries, according to the veterinarian.

Abigail had several surgeries to make a comeback.

She was featured in numerous media reports and became known for wearing a different colorful bonnet each day. Frazier put a bonnet on her head to help protect her healing face.

People from the United States, Europe and elsewhere were captivated by the dog's demeanor and soulful, dark eyes. More than 200 hand-made bonnets poured in for Abigail at Love is Fur Ever.

Her legion of fans who follow her on the Facebook page Bonnets for Abigail will be able to keep up with Abigail at her new home, Frazier said.

She will continue as an ambassador for her breed and to raise awareness in the fight against abuses such as using bait dogs. Contreras and her husband have agreed to keep her Facebook page active.

Naples-based Arthrex, a global medical device manufacturer, donated its advanced wound dressing product JumpStart to the veterinarian for Abigail's dressings.

The couple have another rescue, Tala, a lab pit mix, who was adopted at 8 weeks old and will turn 2 years old in the fall. They cared for Abigail for one week in the spring to see how the two dogs would get along, and it was love at first sight.

"It was perfect," Contreras said. "Tala has accepted her just like a sister."

Abigail is thought to be 2, and her birth date was given as Nov. 14, the day she was rescued from the Miami shelter.

It seems Tala can tell something had gone terribly wrong with Abigail and now is fiercely protective of her. One night earlier this week, they switched beds, Contreras said.

She and her husband had not considered putting their names in the running for Abigail because they lived in a rental town home. After they bought a home, Contreras said, her husband filled out the adoption application and surprised her.

Frazier, who is a few weeks away from delivering twins, said it took time to shift through all the applications. Something just felt right about Contreras and her husband.

Frazier invited them to a Fort Myers restaurant last weekend with the guise of a get-together before the twins arrive. The restaurant has a patio that allows dogs.

Contreras knew the adoption was down to herself and another family. On the way to the restaurant, she and her husband speculated whether Frazier would have some news for them.

Frazier had a big box with pink balloons inside. Some were decorated with paw prints and others said, "Happy Adoption Day."

"I didn't expect to find out in that grand of a way," Contreras said. "I just remember Abigail running toward me."

For Frazier, the adoption is bittersweet. She knew the day would come.

"My mornings and nights are really hard," Frazier said. "My life was consumed by her. I think the hardest part is I was there every single second of everything. That's probably the hardest thing is changing my whole daily routine. I definitely miss her."

Princess Diana's fashion still transmits messages

By all accounts, she would have hated the negative feedback loops of Instagram and Twitter. But she certainly knew the power of clothing for personal branding, long before the Kardashians made a fortune from it.

Her meticulous utilization of fashion as messaging, in part, explains the enduring fascination with her style 20 years after her death.

"I suspect there are many aspects to Diana's continuing iconic status, but a central issue has to be her apparent ability to communicate in personal terms across mass media," says Jude Davies, a professor of American literature and culture at the University of Winchester, and author of Diana, A Cultural History.

The intensely personal messages coded in her clothing, particularly in tandem with her charitable work, set her apart from the modern-day Angelina Jolies and Madonnas of the world.

"Crucial to this was a sense of not only her own feelings but her own vulnerability," he says, referencing her well-known insecurities and search for positive reinforcement. "Hence she didn't come across as patronizing - rather as seeking a genuine positive contact with other human beings."

While still Her Royal Highness, she famously ditched the customary gloves still favored by Queen Elizabeth II -- a strategic move that, gasp, allowed skin-on-skin contact with the masses she met at hospitals and homeless shelters. That included people with AIDS during a time when many were treated as lepers.

"That a very fascinating young royal person would do this made, I would say, much more of a difference than a lot of well-intentioned propagandists," says British author and management consultant Peter York.

Her work advocating for landmine removal further let her ditch the stuffy princess personae, and literally and symbolically roll up her sleeves.

"My favorite image of her, apart from the Mario Testino portraits, is her walking through a minefield in jeans in a white tee shirt. That was so brave, she was a brave person," says Meredith Etherington-Smith, former creative director of Christie's International who worked with Diana on the 1997 sale of her dresses at the auction house.

But, as Etherington-Smith notes, Diana wasn't always so keenly dressed. In the early '80s, she became the poster-child for Sloane Rangers – a portmanteau coined by York and his editor at Harpers & Queen magazine Ann Barr of Sloane Square in the posh Chelsea neighborhood of London and The Lone Ranger. It became short-hand for old money, well-connected types with an affinity for country life, mustard corduroys, lacy collars and general shabby-without-the-chic aesthetic.

"We got her wrong, self-servingly, we got her wrong," York confesses, noting that he and Barr chose a photo of the princess for the cover of their book The Official Sloane Ranger Handbook. "We had taken it for granted that she would be a nice upper middle Sloane girl in her behavior and of course what she was was a wacky aristocrat with a very firm idea of her own value."

As she grew into her public roll, and more evidently after her divorce, she was not the wilting English rose.

"She was clearly a lot of times happier with self-made gay entertainers than doing field sports and riding and going to the country," York says. "And she became this international type."

The most famous display of her international glamour came in the form of a blue velvet gown by Victor Edelstein which she wore when dancing with John Travolta at the White House. It sold for $222,500 in the 1997 Christie's auction, breaking a previous record of $145,000 for a garment, ironically, that Travolta wore in Saturday Night Fever.

"It was like something that might have been made for Queen Alexandra, she just looked beautiful in it," says Etherington-Smith.

But that personal messaging in her clothing could be calculated, with occasional digs at her ex-husband or the press. The originator of the "Revenge Dress" -- Diana showed up to the annual Serpentine Gallery summer party in a short, figure-hugging Christina Stambolian frock on the day Prince Charles was to confess in an interview to having an affair with Camilla Parker Bowles, now the Duchess of Cornwall.

Fifty Years of Ebony Fashion Fair

Let's take a fresh look back in time: it's 1979. You attended the 22nd Annual Ebony Fashion Fair in your hometown. The show's theme was "COLOR EXPLOSION." A beautiful Black model struts her stuff down the runway wearing Yves Saint Laurent…the Picasso evening dress to be exact.

The dress boasts beautiful power colors of red, blue and black, it's a silk number, a one-of-a-kind, made from luxurious moiré taffeta and satin. The model makes it clear she's the one in the dress, and you gasp and exclaim, "I want that dress!" That's the way an Ebony Fashion Fair show made you feel all the way to the bridal finale: the haute couture wedding dress that made your jaw drop.

The Laurent dress, worth at least $30,000, presented a visage of perfection on the Fashion Fair runway. It enticed the audience with luxurious, multi-colored geometric and artistic shapes. The Laurent evening dress was one of 7,000 pieces acquired by Mrs. Eunice W. Johnson, the titan of fashion and beauty for the Johnson Publishing Company, co-owned by her husband John H. Johnson. Johnson Publishing Company was known for publishing Ebony and Jet magazines.  

John Johnson once said they had to "beg, persuade, and threaten [for] the right to buy clothes."  The designers feared their clients' reactions to seeing haute couture designs on Black models.   This was before the Civil Rights Act of 1964 outlawed discrimination. At that time, the skin color of the Fashion Fair audience outweighed the Johnsons' purchasing power. Championing Black elitism and social uplift in spite of blatant racism, Fashion Fair traversed the country showcasing high fashion to the crème de la crème of Black society starting in 1958, with its final production in 2009.

"Mrs. Johnson was buying the best fashion of the time," said Joy Bivins, director of Curatorial Affairs at the Chicago History Museum. "There are these wonderful pieces and stories connected to her. The whole idea of bringing high couture to the masses at these shows was really quite revolutionary." 

In 2013, Bivins was responsible for the curation of the Fashion Fair "Inspiring Beauty" exhibit, a multisensory fashion experience that featured sixty-seven dressed mannequins of color. The exhibit was developed by the Chicago History Museum in cooperation with Johnson Publishing Company, LLC. The exhibit is presented by the Costume Council of the Chicago History Museum. The International Arts & Artists organization in Washington, D.C. is responsible for the exhibit touring eight museums in the United States.  

After the initial battles with racism, Mrs. Johnson eventually built privy business relationships with more than 100 designers in such cities as Paris, Rome, Milan, London, Tokyo and New York. She had a prowess for the dramatic and beautiful luxury of haute couture. Her close friendships with European couture designers like Laurent spanned five decades and showed African Americans the high life of fashion and beauty, while raising more than $55 million for charities. 

Black people would wait all year to attend the Fair, brought to them by local sororities, fraternities, lodges or social groups.  Each season was more exciting and spectacular than the prior. The show production featured a new fashion theme, garments, music and a fabulous commentator. For years, the charity fashion show was a mainstream cultural event with almost 200 shows per year in the United States, Canada, and the Caribbean. Models thrilled audiences strutting the runway wearing Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Patrick Kelly, B. Michael, Vivienne Westwood, Stephen Burrows, and many more.

Since October 2014, the traveling "Inspiring Beauty" exhibit of 41 garments has been seen at seven museums including The George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum in D.C. After the exhibition's final stop in Raleigh, N.C. this fall, the exhibit will permanently retire at the Chicago History Museum and the Johnson Publishing Company. All the garments have appeared on the Fashion Fair runway from 1964 to 2009, and will be laid to rest for future exhibitions, not to be viewed any time soon. 

"We hoped to communicate that these things are beautiful, luxurious, and fantastical, but really they were about furthering a vision about the best of Black life, which is what Ebony magazine was about," Bivins said. "The fashion becomes a way of telling the story about Black aspiration.  At the end of the day, I hope people see it and are wowed by it."

Satori Designs sets up shop in Solana Beach

After more than 20 years in business, Satori Designs has finally found a home in Solana Beach.

Located in the heart of Cedros Design District, the shop features an eclectic collection of women's clothing and accessories in collaboration with local and international designers.

"This is my very first brick and mortar store," said owner Roya Parviz.

Inspired by art, music, travel and tradition, Satori Designs offers an array of apparel and accessories from around the world.

Among a variety of other pieces, the shop features a Barcelona-based clothing line called Desigual and another exclusive line from France called Rene Derhy. Much of the jewelry, shawls and other accessories come from local designers Parviz has personally worked with over the years. There is also a section for home décor with wall art, other decorations and more.

"I'm always on the lookout for something different," Parviz said.

Born in Iran, Parviz's family came to San Diego following the Iranian Revolution. As a young girl, Parviz was exposed to the fashion industry by her mother, who studied fashion design in Austria.

Parviz went on to earn a bachelor's degree in economics with a minor in visual arts from UC San Diego. After an unfulfilling year in banking, she followed her mother's footsteps and went on to study fashion design at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandizing in Los Angeles, where she lived and worked in the fashion industry for seven years.

Parviz started a wholesale business called Satori Designs in 1994. Her business has been a part of co-ops since she returned to San Diego a few years later.

She got her start in Solana Beach at Leaping Lotus. Also on Cedros Avenue, the store has more than 120 merchants in its 21,000-square-foot marketplace. Parviz later brought her business to Pangaea Outpost's Pacific Beach and Del Mar locations.

When Pangaea Outpost closed its store at Flower Hill Promenade, Parviz decided to open her own shop. After more than two decades in business, she opened her very first boutique in July at 146 South Cedros Avenue.

"I was forced to look for something, which was a blessing in disguise," Parviz said. "I never thought I could do it on my own."

Having become a staple in the greater San Diego fashion community since the late 1990s, Parviz often gives back to the community through her business. Satori Designs, she said, has participated in a number of charity fashion shows and fundraising events for local charities and foundations, including St. Madeleine Sophie's Center, Epilepsy Foundation, Cystic Fibrosis Foundation and others.

"I've been doing that for years," Parviz said. "It just really feels good to give that kind of a feeling in the community."

Whether working with charities or with clients in her boutique, Parviz said she most enjoys getting to know people in the community. With established customers in Del Mar, Solana Beach and neighboring communities, she has already seen a lot of familiar faces as well as new ones at Satori Designs.

"I love the creative part just as much as I love the people part," Parviz said. "I'm not really in it to make a quick sale; I'm in it for a long-term relationship."

Salt Collection brings fashion from around the world to Encinitas

You could call it a fashion travel agency of sorts.

Salt Collection, which opened in Encinitas on March 4, may look like an ordinary 1930s beach cottage. As people walk inside, it's immediately known that it's something more — a quaint fashion boutique that carries brands from all over the world.

The idea for the shop on Coast Highway 101, which is owned by Sophie Machado — wife of professional surfer Rob Machado — was to incorporate collections that the couple has discovered in their travels around the world.

Sophie Machado, who has lived in Encinitas for seven years with her family, said she and her husband have come to know many of the designers and owners personally.

"I originally just wanted to open an online store, but both of my parents taught me to dream big and shoot for the stars," she said. "I wanted to create the experience, and I felt like I couldn't do that through just photographs. I wanted people to be able to feel like they were a part of meeting the people we've met along the way. I felt like the only way to do that was to open a store and be able to create an environment."

Sophie Machado said she decided to open the store in October and received the keys to the building, located at 930 South Coast Highway 101, in December.

The shop sells mostly women's clothing — basics, tops, bottoms, swimwear, outerwear, active wear and shoes — but also has racks for unisex children's and men's clothing.

The dozens of brands include People Footwear, Steve Madden, Jaye Swim, Acacia Swimwear Olympia Activewear and Roarke Revival.

Sophie Machado said customers can build an outfit, including shoes, tops and pants, at the store for between $75 and $200.

"We wanted something that would be affordable," she said. "We didn't want to go super high-end and scare people away. ... That's how I shop. I'm not going to spend a ton of money on something that's just trendy. But if it's a great piece of furniture or an amazing jacket I can have multiple uses for, then I'm going to definitely put out the cash for it."

All the fixtures inside, including decorations, couches and plants are also all for sale.

"I don't like walking into a store, liking something and being told it's display-only," Sophie Machado said. "Everything in our store is for sale."

Rob Machado also sells one-of-a-kind, gloss-polished surfboards that are available exclusively at Salt Collection.

Candles, sunglasses and teas also fill shelves in the store, which still maintains its classic bungalow feel.

The Machados have kept a working kitchen with its original green tile in the store, where they serve cups of coffee and ring up customers.

People can also choose to lounge on the back patio, which is adorned with outdoor chairs and pillows, as well as a garden.

"We wanted to keep it as original as possible," Sophie Machado said. "This is where Rob grew up and where we're living. This spot is more than we could have ever dreamed of. There's a ton of real estate around here, but I wanted something that was unique, had character and had some sort of life to it. I think we found that here."

Surf Dog Surf-A-Thon event to salute first responders

Helen Woodward Animal Center's Annual Surf Dog Surf-A-Thon marks its 11th year on a very important date – 9/11. Paying tribute to the wonderful first responders and their working dogs who keep people safe, this year's surf spectacular will include patriotic ceremonies with special tributes for the heroes (both human and canine) who show their skills and bravery on dry land. The 11th annual Surf Dog Surf-A-Thon is presented by Blue Buffalo and takes place at Dog Beach Del Mar on Sunday, Sept. 11 from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Helen Woodward Animal Center will never forget Sept. 11 and the heroes who were there to assist. On this very important date, the Center's annual event will include special moments of acknowledgement for the brave individuals who protect and serve our country and citizens. Honorary activities will include a Color Guard (California State University, San Marcos, Army reserve Officer's Training Corps); a moment of silence; the National Anthem sung by Hospital Corpsman Third Class Grace Layugan (stationed on board the Naval aircraft carrier USS Theodore Roosevelt at North Island); a San Diego Police Department Search and Rescue K9 demo; and a First Responder tribute ceremony with plaques presented to men, women and canines from all working units.

Sharing the special day with fuzzy military heroes will be over 80 dogs who have prepped throughout the summer to surf at Helen Woodward Animal Center's largest canine surf competition in the country. Dogs, with help from their human parents, will participate in 10-minute heats based on weight class. Each dog is judged on their ability to ride the waves, stay on the board, and have lots of fun. First, second and third place winners will be awarded for each weight class and the first place winners will move ahead to the finals--Best In Surf.

This year's activities will also feature a freestyle surf contest where points will be awarded for creativity! Dogs can surf on the same board as their friends, or favorite human. Tandem rides, tricks, and costumes are all encouraged to catch the public and the judges' eyes! Each surFUR heat will be judged by celebrities, surf pros and aficionados.

Other dog-and-family friendly activities scheduled throughout the day include live beach tunes, food trucks, the pup-ular Canine Costume Contest, fun Surf Dog Surf-A-Thon merchandise for sale, over 50 interactive vendor booths; and a special FREE Kid's Activity area – with crafts, face painting, games and more.

Winning toilet paper gowns offered to brides-in-need

A toilet paper wedding dress with 1,500 hand-cut butterflies made by a mother of two in her spare time won the $10,000 first prize in a quirky New York fashion competition on Thursday and a bride-in-need may have the chance to wear it down the aisle.

Ripley's Believe It or Not!, which exhibits winning entries every year, is donating about 20 of the top gowns to brides whose plans were shattered by the sudden bankruptcy of wedding dressmaker Alfred Angelo last week.

Kari Curletto said she spent three months on her submission "Quilted Enchantment," with its six-foot cathedral train. It was her first entry, one of 1,517 this year, in the 13-year-old toilet paper dress competition sponsored by Cheap Chic Weddings and Quilted Northern toilet paper.

"It kind of feels like I'm dreaming right now," Curletto said in an interview after her win. "Halfway through I was going to quit. I was crying and thinking, 'Well, I just can't do it. It's too much,' and a butterfly flew into my yard and landed on my hand."

Curletto, an actress living in Las Vegas, fashioned the dress from toilet paper, glue, glitter and tape, working at night after her children went to bed.

Brides-in-need should contact Ripley's by July 28 for a chance to get a paper gown, spokeswoman Suzanne Smagala-Potts said by phone. The exhibitor has yet to choose which ones will be donated, she added.

Florist Roy Cruz of Chesapeake, Virginia, won in 2015 and 2016. His submission this year, a two-piece floral ball gown featuring snowflake cut-outs was voted fan favorite.

Le Mini Macaron Is The At Home Gel Nail Varnish Kit You Need

What if I told you you could get Instagram worthy gel-nails from the comfort of your sofa? You'd be keen, right? Well then, let me introduce you to Le Mini Macaron. The (adorable) LED light promising to give you long lasting gel nails over and over. Is it actually worth it though?

First up, how much does this thing cost?
Considering getting your nails done is now a monthly occurrence for most 20-something women, a Le Mini Macaron pack will cost you about the same as a decent salon gel manicure. 35 euros, and then that's it – you're good to go and have the kit at home so you can do your nails whenever, or wherever.

But what does the kit include?
It includes the cutest little LED light, in the shape of a macaron of course. A nail file and something to push your cuticles down with, little varnish remover pads – I think there's 10, then the actual nail varnish. Each pack only comes with one nail varnish, in the same colour as your LED light. This is probably the only fault, because varnishes then cost around £14 so if you want to change your colours up, you have to spend more money.

Which colours do they have?
Errrrm every colour under the sun? I tested out the 'Cherry Red,' the 'Cassis' and the 'Peach.' The red was a standout favourite for me, with Cassis coming a close second. I loved the colour of the peach, but found the colour wasn't as strong and it came out a little streaky, probably because it was lighter than the other too. That being said, if you were really careful and not impatient like me, you could probably do a better job and the colour would be stronger.

Are they actually as good as a salon manicure, though?
The peach wasn't, I'll be honest. I found it cheap easily and within 3 days I needed to take it off. The reds, however, definitely were. They lasted ages, and I got lots of compliments on how great my nails looked. I also found that my nails felt stronger after taking the polish off – rather than brittle and weak when salon gel nails eventually get picked off. I don't know if they use a different formula, but my nails definitely look a lot healthier now without polish than they have in a long time.

Faux fur trend gone wild

You'll find it on handbags and key chains. Lampshades and steering wheel covers. Bathrobes and blanket throws. In this cozy-seeking season, faux fur makes itself right at home.

Whether made to imitate the fur of a real animal - or blatantly fake as in puffs of fluffy hot pink or turquoise -  you'll find faux fur in expected places such as hood trims on parkas but, oh, so many others.

This season, we're seeing faux fur:

On stools: Pottery Barn sells the ivory Mongolian Faux Fur Stool that stands on pecan-finished legs that peek out the bottom. Priced at $229, it's described as a way to "bring an unexpected accent into a room." Target.com also features stools covered in a number of faux-fur options, including a fluffy flokati stool, named for the Greek woven woolen rugs with shaggy pile, and a trimmer faux fur in a pale-pink color called blush. And, at the Fall Furniture Market in High Point, N.C., Patricia Sheridan of the Pittsburgh Post introduced readers to the quirky but realistic-looking polar bear bench with white faux fur from Maitland-Smith.

On robes: If cheetah-print slippers aren't enough for you, why not lounge around your boudoir in a faux-fur-trimmed robe? Pottery Barn stocked ivory robes with a generously scaled trim of caramel, gray or chinchilla faux fur - with or without hoods (and with slippers to match).

On winter accessories: From faux-fur scarves and wraps to faux-fur earmuffs and headbands, accessories give people the option to wear a little bit of faux fur rather than a lot - as in a jacket or coat. Faux fur also can be seen on the cuffs of gloves, trimming handbags and as fluffy pompoms on tops of berets or dangling from scarves.

On holiday decor: We have moved into a new year, but memories remain of faux fur seen during the holiday season. We're talking Christmas stockings, table runners, wine bags, even Christmas wreaths (combined with pinecones). Some have sold out or are no longer available; some are on clearance.

As accents: For fall, faux-fur pompoms accented basketweave throws and decorative pillows – in neutral colors gray, ivory and mink – in the Martha Stewart Collection for Macy's. And a fluffy pompom lands on the top of the Leah sneaker with cut-away sides from Nine West – in silver or blue metallic, priced $69 a pair at ninewest.com.

But faux fur is nothing new, although its look and feel have improved through the years. Two years ago, the Smithsonian magazine featured an article on the history of faux fur, tracing one early short-haired version back to the 1910s. Consumers began looking for alternatives to high-priced furs associated with wealth and status, and the faux-fur industry got to work.

"As technology improved, manufacturers were able to create fur effects in silk—resembling leopard, gazelle, and mole—and eventually, synthetic pile fabrics like Orlon and Dynel, created in 1948 and 1950, respectively. By 1957, fake furriers were trying their hands at replicating mink, beaver, chinchilla, seal, raccoon, ermine, pony, and giraffe, some with more success than others. At best, one could hope to convince the eye, if not the touch," wrote Alice Hines in the article.

By the 1960s, conservationists and animal rights activists stepped in, and the faux-fur industry saw more opportunity, she continued.

"If fur was historically fashion's loudest signifier of identity and status, fake fur began to rival it, communicating its wearer's progressive political beliefs. While today some vegans oppose fur of any kind, on the grounds that even fakes popularize the aesthetic, animal rights groups generally back fakes," Hines wrote.

Which brings us to today  -  when you can turn up at a party in a faux-fur vest and deliver wine to your host in a faux-fur wine bag, or stay at home in your faux-fur trimmed bathrobe, curled up a a faux-fur blanket talking to friends via cell phone protected by a faux-fur case.